Istanbul (Not Constantinople)

I was complaining to one of the scientists here about my recent travel, and she shared her recent family vacation experience. It involved 6 hours in a bus trying to cross the Israel-Palestine border, losing luggage, and threats of imprisonment. I stopped complaining to her at that point, as my problems sounded really lame. Instead, I’ll share them with everyone else 🙂

Returning from OKC to Riyadh, I was delayed in DFW; it was not because the 6-pack of bar soap in my bag resembled a bomb (which evidently it did), but due to mechanical problems with the plane. After missing a connecting flight in London, I was rerouted to Istanbul. Delirious with fatigue, two thoughts kept repeating in my mind; first was that I don’t know any Turkish, so I hope I don’t have to ask where the restrooms are. The second was the song “Istanbul not Constantinople” by They Might Be Giants. Great song the first few times you play it back in your mind, but the romance fades after 20 hours of air travel. Upon landing, an American gentleman who had a very tight connection made his way to the front of the plane, hoping to be the first person to leap through the door and dash to his gate. After 15 minutes, we realized that the front exit was malfunctioning, and everyone was deplaning from the back of the plane, where he had started; due to his new position at the very front, he was the last one off the plane. There’s probably a lesson there somewhere.

Luckily the restrooms had adequate signage, and I didn’t accidentally get on the plane to Tehran at the next gate. I was given a special red card that signified my status as a business class traveler. This means I was allowed to get on the bus first, then wait while everyone else boarded the same bus to take us out on the tarmac to the waiting plane. We then elbowed our way up the stairs and found our seats. Turkish Airlines defines customer service as “the plane landed and you walked away from it in one piece, shut up.” I enjoyed a little sleep on the flight, and beat the mad rush through immigration, no red card required. Watching a baggage carousel for 20 minutes after 30 hours of travel induces vertigo. Not finding your luggage is even more nauseating. Evidently my bag had decided to spend the weekend in Istanbul, drinking coffee and smoking Shisha by the Bosporus.

When the airline called to let me know my luggage had been found, I rushed to the airport for our reunion. I stumbled through the door, a father looking for his prodigal bag. The map legend revealed an icon for “baggage services”, but that icon was not anywhere else on the map ($@#*&!). After giving me two separate sets of bad instructions, the manager of the Turkish Airlines desk grudgingly walks me to the hidden entrance to customs; it was a door placed at a perpendicular angle to the hallway, with a small sign that said “customs”. It was like finding the entrance to Rivendell. I endured a thorough security check, and was then released to the land of lost luggage.

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I was prepared to describe my bag and its contents, bringing all of the ID that had been required to get through the secret door of customs. Instead, the disinterested guy says “Oh, you have a bag?”, opens the door, and motions me into the storage area. I grabbed my bag and left. I could’ve grabbed any bag or three. I suppose nobody wants to take a chance with going through customs with someone else’s bag. I’m just relieved my suitcase didn’t come home with any contraband or social diseases; all is forgiven.

Cars in the Kingdom

If you imagine news footage of the average smoldering civil war in Africa or central Asia, you will see a bunch of guys with guns riding around in the back of a pickup. In Oklahoma we just called that “Saturday”, but that’s a different topic. The ubiquitous white four door pickup that has transported so many revolutionaries is the Toyota Hilux. It has such a reputation for durability, the brilliant team from BBC’s Top Gear tried to destroy one, and couldn’t. Search for “top gear killing a toyota” on YouTube and you’ll see the results. No television show or puppet government can stop this little truck.

The problem in the magic Kingdom is that I can’t buy one. It’s not the limitation of sharia law that argues against the inherent evils of charging interest; the banks have found ways around that (they always win, right?). Maybe they assume we can’t start a revolution if we don’t have any pickups. The barrier is that they are classified as commercial vehicles and regular citizens (or immigrant hired help like myself) can’t buy one. Along the same lines, you have to prove you have a family before buying an SUV. I wonder if you have to have 2 wives to get one with a third row seat…

Traffic rules here are easy to learn. The lines on the road are just decorations, don’t pay them any mind. Similarly, traffic lights are just suggestions, you really can drive through an intersection whenever you feel you can get away with it. The mass of cars juggle for position like a herd of camels trying to squeeze through a gate. Honking is random; I’m not sure if it means “the light has been green for 12 milliseconds, GO!”, “excuse me, coming through”, “go ahead, I’ll let you change lanes” or just “Listen to me honk. HONK! HONK! HONK!” In the next month or two I hope to update you with more on buying a car and driving in a very foreign land. Most likely followed with a post on what it’s like to have a fender-bender in said foreign land. Stay tuned!

The Calculus of Philosophy (or “I need to get out more”)

Fair warning- this post is going to be tagged “#unrelated topics”. And it gets really geeky. You’ve been warned.

When thinking about an ethical or philosophical issue, a fun exercise is to take your position to its ridiculous extreme and see if it still sounds reasonable, or is left gasping for air like the flabby rationalization it really is. Speaking of ridiculous, I just used “fun”, “exercise”, and “philosophical” in the same sentence. Those three words may never intersect again, and I’m just glad I got to be part of it.

Anyway, if something claims to be Truth, it should always be true no matter how you push, pull or twist it. One of the principles of calculus (which never ever lies) is that if you want to really define an equation, you see what it does as it approaches infinity. Interesting that mathematicians, not philosophers, realized that we can never reach infinity, but we can imagine what happens as we approach it. What is true right here and right now should be true in the most extreme of circumstances.

To apply this theory, imagine the competing truths or ideals we all juggle. Family, fatigue, faith, career, all combining in complicated permutations. For the sake of this experiment, let’s remove a few variables from the equation. Oh I don’t know, for demonstration’s sake remove family, cable TV, a car, outdoor activities, and bacon. You are left with career, faith, and… Well, that’s about it. What is the “truth” of career when it is put in such a prime position? How does it look as work approaches infinity?

Before you pound the keyboard and declare that work is evil and must be scoured from this earth, reverse the exercise. Remove career from the equation, and you have a not-so-pretty image of someone sitting on their couch watching televangelists, eating bacon, surrounded by 12 dirty children. I would assume a car is back in the picture as well, but it’s on blocks in the front yard.

Now the solution to this problem is that there must be an equilibrium; some point on the chart where the values of career and family and everything else can be in the correct proportion. This is when most people would say “Well Duh!”. During medical school we were constantly told to keep our lives balanced; in residency and then in our jobs, at church and in our neighborhoods, everyone repeats the mantra of finding balance. Our little math derivation has proven this to be true. But why didn’t anyone tell us how to find that balance? Now that we know there’s a formula, what is it?!? I think they don’t tell us because nobody really, truly knows. We are all missing the target in our unique way, filling out the scatter plot of life. Maybe we are supposed to make the most of what we have, and look with faith towards infinity. That’s where the truth will be.

Right on Cue

Familiarity can happen in the funniest places. There is a recreation center here on the hospital compound, and despite having the exact same equipment as American gyms, it feels foreign. This is partly due to the lack of women, which probably results in less mirror-flexing than in US gyms. The majority of the guys working out are Filipino, and they take a break between each set to grab their phones and text someone back home. As an aside, this method must work, because they’re all really buff. The end result is an atmosphere that’s a little melancholy, because you can sense that everyone would rather be wherever their texts are going.

After running on an American Cybex treadmill and listening to my American music, feeling very foreign, I wandered into the billiard room. At first I asked about playing pool, but they kept trying to send me outside to the large hole in the ground full of chlorinated water. Billiards? they asked; yes, I’d like to play billiards. There isn’t anyone else around, so the young Filipino guy asks if I want him to play. Three games later, I’m convinced that he just let me win the last one so I wouldn’t complain to his supervisor. It turns out that in the Philippines, the favorite sports among young men are billiards and basketball. He also mentioned whiskey and chasing girls, which is probably why he’s in Saudi Arabia paying off his credit card debt and child support. He asked about Kevin Durant, and why OKC traded James Harden. That, I told my new friend, is a question that has been asked over thousands of billiard tables; usually as part of a greater conversation about other regrets (like drinking whiskey and chasing girls). Throw in a juke box playing classic rock or Willie Nelson and we could’ve been anywhere between Eagle Pass and Fargo. Maybe next time he’ll tell me more about his six year old son, and maybe I’ll win two out of three.

You Might Be…

Top ten lists are appropriate for almost any situation. Of course, you’d have to make it a tasteful one if you are speaking at a funeral, but everyone loves a top ten.

Here are the top ten things that might mean you are in Saudi Arabia:

1. Skype is your most commonly used verb (passing bicycling, running, dancing, or any other action where others might see your ankles)

2. You can’t see this list, because internet traffic is monitored

3. Having lunch with Jesus and Mohammed doesn’t involve transfiguration (true story- at the Ritz Carlton no less, which isn’t where either of those two would’ve been having lunch)

4. Finding frozen enchiladas at the market almost brings you to tears

 

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5. Same for peanut butter

6. You feel like 10 minutes outside and a sprinkling of black pepper would turn you into beef jerky

7. Fried chicken is an option at every meal

8. Drinking homemade wine doesn’t cause your neighbors to look down on you.

Wait, those last two sound like Arkansas. That’s for you MW.

9. You spend 87% of your time doing math in your head; converting pounds to kilograms, miles to kilometers, Riyals to dollars, Riyadh to Central Standard Time. Not Centigrade to Fahrenheit, because that’d be too depressing.

10. When people from Spain find out you are from Texas, they start speaking to you in Spanish. Maybe that happens in Arkansas too.

Vaya con dios, mis amigos.

 

All That You Can’t Leave Behind

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The title was penned by one of the last century’s most prolific philosophers, Bono of U2. It made me think of how we use the word “baggage”; it doesn’t evoke images of elegant adventurism, but something more like a boat anchor we are bound to. The things we have to bring with us are either necessary, wanted, or are so intimately part of us we can’t leave them behind. The airlines have decreed that 50 pounds per bag shall be the limit of what we can carry, and in our lives there is only room for so many thoughts, desires, regrets, and dreams. My mom would say that three moves equals a house fire when it comes to losing things, and it is a good thing to occasionally prioritize all of the things we accumulate in our lives. When I arrive at my destination, what will I have spent so much effort dragging behind me?

Lifestyle modification- while supplies last!

My new position is an intersection of two independent bureaucratic organizations. Don’t imagine a busy, bustling urban intersection though. Instead, think of several freight trains sitting idly by a large cargo ship, with all of the engineers and dock workers either taking a union break or speaking a different language. This has given me a little extra time to enjoy the unemployed life, so I shouldn’t complain. I’m adopting a diet of mostly pork and fermented grain liquids, which I refer to as the anti-Halal or “Hey Ya’ll” diet. This will be followed by 3 months of living in a sauna, so I should be able to sweat off any extra pounds. I’m also going to try combining this with Rosetta Stone; this confluence of activities seems perfectly suited for an infomercial targeting ophthalmologists of a certain age. I’m hoping to bring this new lifestyle system to market while I’m not bound by a university intellectual property gestapo. Operators are standing by, accepting cash or Bratwurst. Until then, “As-salamu alaykum”- peace be upon you.

Sweet Desserts

There are a few ways to get a cake at work. The least popular is to have a birthday ending in zero. It is a participation ribbon for life; you’ve managed to avoid getting run over by a bus, have some cake. I’ve decided that i won’t be admitting to any more of those decade-defining milestones (4 is plenty), so my opportunities for free cake are diminishing. Today I was surrounded by my surrogate family and given the second kind of office cake- the going-away cake. After digesting all of the day’s events- literally and figuratively- I’m either entering a hyperglycemic coma or floating on a euphoric river of camaraderie and affection.

We spend more of our waking hours at our career than at anything else. I’ve been blessed to work with people who have added richness, warmth, and more than a little sweetness to every day. Here’s to making every day count, and enjoying those moments that come with icing on top.

Entering the Blogosphere

Practicing ophthalmology is a lot like fixing cars. You listen, observe, calculate the relative possibilities, and proceed with the most likely diagnosis. Of course, if you drop a bolt into the engine, you don’t have to explain to the car’s family why it will never see again. This morning I had the pleasure of introducing the incoming residents to eye trauma, and was reminded of the intensity of those years; the fear of the unknown (and there is a lot of unknown!) obscures the distant promise of a fulfilling career saving sight. I am thankful that I have the opportunity to perform a few tune-ups, the occasional major overhaul, and show the next generation what it looks like to walk alongside our patients for at least part of their journey. 

A blog about travel and other random events, hoping to bring clarity to the chaos