Oman- California of the Middle East

There is a certain cultural undercurrent that you can sense in almost every seaside community. Living next to the ocean must instill a sense of patience, and an understanding of how small we really are. The waves have a rhythm of their own, and the pace of the tides changes for no one.

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Muscat, Oman, is one of those pearls. It sits on the southeastern coast of the arabian peninsula, and draws the fortunate triple of sun, mountains, and warm seas. When we (after a lengthy delay- for rain of all things!) finally arrived at the modest airport, the friendly customs and immigration officer was concerned that it was so late at night, and made sure we found a taxi to take us to our hotel. Upon leaving the airport, we noticed an immediate change in atmosphere- there was a salty ocean breeze, and courteous drivers were using turn signals!

The next two days were devoted to lounging on the beach, letting the sun melt away our stress and worries.

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However, the true beauty of Muscat wasn’t apparent until we left the hotel. The Omani people were as warm and inviting as the beaches, and we were constantly amazed at their desire to share their country with us. Our tour guide, Yousuf, took us to the Sultan Qaboos Grand Mosque, which is simply amazing.

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The people of Oman adore their Sultan. He had been out of the country for medical treatment, and just returned during our visit.

DSC_0802The streets were filled with people honking and celebrating; I never thought I’d see a woman standing up through the sunroof of a Hummer dancing- while wearing an Abaya! This brings us to the title of this post. I’m convinced that Oman is the California of the Middle East. In fact, if you turn the map just right, it even looks like California:

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Muscat is right around where Santa Monica would be. The crazy people who live in communes are found towards the top of the map (Yemen/Oregon). Dubai is a few hours’ drive through the desert away, allowing Las Vegas-like escapades. Iran is like Mexico, if the drug cartels had nuclear weapons.

The mountains of Oman are a must-see. Once again, following the SUVs into the wild:

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Jebel Shams is the “Grand Canyon of Oman”. I think our kids will mostly remember feeding dates to the goats.

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To celebrate our successful trek through the mountains, we headed out to sea. A traditional Dhow cruise comes with a new-traditional serving of Pepsi.

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To summarize the rest of the trip: souq shopping, snorkeling on a coral reef, eating a traditional Omani meal on a boat while looking for dolphins, and getting a Henna tattoo.

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On that note, one of my children exhibited his lack of impulse control when my wife suggested she get a face tattoo; he immediately, enthusiastically says “that’s a great idea!”. I’m not looking forward to the teenage years..

Another great Omani moment was when our taxi driver asked if he could take a detour. I didn’t really understand what he was saying, but agreed anyway. That habit will probably get me in trouble one day, but it paid off this time. He drove us to a point above town to watch the sunset, and showed us his home and the best places to fish. The view was worth the detour:

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I will never forget the beautiful people and scenery of Oman. Maybe after a month or a year it would all seem normal, but for one week every moment was worthy of a post-card.

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Not Exactly What We Planned…

This weekend started out very typically. I left work at 5:08, which counts as working late by the appearance of the parking lot:

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At least I missed the rush I suppose. The next morning, we packed up Sandy (our new-to-us SUV, named for her locally appropriate color) and took child #2 to Girl Scouts camp. Once again, we followed the herd of SUVs into the desert.

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Saturday, feeling twinges of responsible parenting, we decided we should go pick up child #2 from camp. Everything was going according to plan thus far, so I decided to add a little excitement to our day. Google maps put us close to an amazing stretch of sand dunes in Thumama park, the kids were all lost in their iPads anyway, and I made an executive decision to take the family exploring.

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This plan (or lack of…) probably had several flaws, but the most important was in my estimation of Sandy’s off road ability. I love the chrome 20 inch rims, but a fat 2-wheel drive bloated pig of a truck does not do well in the desert. Not surprisingly (at least in hindsight), we were soon buried to the axles in sand. No pictures were allowed at this point, so you’ll have to use your imagination. We were lucky enough to flag down a passing Bedouin in an old pickup, and that’s when our adventure really began…

After pulling us out of the sand, he motioned for us to follow him. I didn’t want to disagree and then end up as vulture bait again, so we tried to keep pace along the hardscrabble wadis, through a gap in the fence meant to keep us on the correct side of the highway, onto the highway driving the wrong direction until we reached a crossover, and so on… My long-suffering family might have been questioning my judgement at this point. I certainly was.

Soon we arrived at a modest tent with a herd of sheep and an ATV; his family was gathering, and he had invited us in. At least, I really hope he was inviting us, because otherwise we were probably the most unlikely party-crashers of all time. Since his English and my Arabic did not intersect, we may never know. Fortunately his younger brother arrived, who spoke English and was very amused at our circumstances. However, if you’ve read my previous blogs, you know what happened next.

Sheep chasing:

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Camel feeding:

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Khabsa eating:

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Arabian coffee drinking (I’m not sure the fire is actually necessary):

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And friend-making:

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Our new friends were eager to show us their corner of the desert, so off we go in their 4×4. Perhaps the coolest thing I have seen in Saudi Arabia, if not anywhere, was the desert version of an RV:

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If you want to take your 40′ camping trailer into the sand dunes, this guy with a 6-wheel drive monster truck will pull it there for you. I want one. Really.

As part of an impromptu cultural exchange, they demonstrated a folk dance, and we showed them the Texas Two-Step. There is a video, but it will only be released under great duress. Tonight we are shaking the sand out of our shoes, enjoying the air conditioning, and wondering just how lost I’ll have to get to top this one.

 

 

1001 Arabian Facts- Part 1

There are subtleties to any culture that you only notice after the glaring differences fade into normalcy. With time, patterns begin to appear out of the chaos.

For example, when you combine frequent sandstorms and elaborate lattice work, you have to hire three Indonesian guys to clean the acres of intricate woodwork:

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One of the most well-known facts about Saudi Arabia is that alcohol is illegal. However, I suspect there may be a little home-brewing going on, evidenced by the pallets of grape juice for sale at the local grocery store:

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Now I know why everyone drives SUVs with so much cargo space…

Stay tuned, at this rate I’ll have time to learn 999 more things about Saudi culture before global warming turns my villa into a beach-front paradise…  only without the margaritas.